Solvent fail

I should have known I was in trouble when the Tamiya cement so reluctantly entered the syringe. But, my trusty MEK Pak has finally breathed out the last of whatever makes it work, and so, I was stuck (so to speak).

So I went ahead and made that test mould with Tamiya Cement. Plainly this stuff does not work the way I think it should. When I fed it into the joints, it stuck stubbornly outside, rather than racing between parts to melt them together. I’m sure it’s an excellent product, just incompatible with the way I work.

The result is that the silicone snuck underneath most of the parts, leaving a ragged edge of rubber where it got trapped when I pulled the mould off the master.

Lesson learned. Next time I will try Tamiya Extra Thin and make sure to go all the way around the masters. On a positive note, I don’t see any bubbles in the mould. So the vacuum chamber appears to do its job.


5 thoughts on “Solvent fail

  1. For solvents at a reasonable price look at the PVC and ABS primers in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. Most of them are very high MEK content. Just don’t get the purple ones.

  2. Found your blog on MRH. As I’m at the light manufacturing point in the hobby (part fabrication) and looking to start scratch building rolling stock in Standard:160 (is Proto:160 a thing?). I expect to review your archives, as there is much to be learne

    1. Great. Do you have a blog I should follow?

      The NMRA did not define Proto:160, but does define Fine:N, which is built around a .051″ width wheel (48% overscale). Interestingly, that is coarser than 2mm Finescale, which admits a 1 mm wheel. I can’t recall if the Model Railway Study Group defined Proto:160 back when they were defining Proto:4 and Proto:87 back in the ’70s.

      Proto scales can be made to work down to Proto:220, although I think Brian Harrap (who is the only one I know that crazy) compromised the standards somewhat.

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