Frame POC

I sure hope my tools really are somewhere in Mt Flood. This business of modelling by candlelight without a square, or even a straight edge is wearing thin after only one evening.

At least I managed to find some syringes and a bottle of MEK that Kyle Gardiner kindly passed my way a few years ago. I’ve been a big fan of MekPak ever since I lived in England, and I thought the raw chemical would be just as good. It turns out, it is quite a bit thinner and therefore harder to control with a syringe. I also seem to be more sensitive to it, and found I was starting to float around the chandelier after only a few minutes.

Even with the makeshift arrangements, however, I threw together the parts from the Cricut in less than an hour. It makes a bijoux frame, with the appropriate recesses through the frame members to accept the springy compensating beams.

The spring design (below) is the particular technical risk that I want to explore with this proof of concept. Sadly, I was unable to find any fine phosphor bronze sheet for the experiment, and so, I will have to use brass to play the part of springs. How I form the shapes in that, given my reduced tool chest, remains as a problem for another day!

 springPlan

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8 thoughts on “Frame POC

  1. Hi René,

    Mekpak isn’t actually MEK, but a proprietary blend of solvents. Originally it was indeed the chemical for which it is named, but that was found to be too volatile and aggressive for frequent use.

    That said, I use MEK, but sparingly.

    Simon

      1. I use a small paintbrush. The thing with MEK is to work with the volatility, as it means you don’t need much to effect a good joint. For detail work, a 000 sized brush is fine. For anything bigger, I use an 00 or 1. For larger laminations I have recently bought some di-limonene, but have yet to try it. This does require good, close-fitting joints: just like soldering metal!

      2. Thanks Simon. Do you have one of those cunning bottle tops that makes a tiny puddle when you dab it with your brush, or do you just live in a cloud of fumes?

  2. Hi Rene…I wonder if the styrene sheet will provide a large enough, and slippery enough, surface so the sprung hex nuts don’t bind? Do you have any depth in that area so you could “build” the surface areas up with a bit of Delrin sheet if needed?
    md

    1. It’s a good question Mark. I believe there is at least a quarter millimetre of clearance designed in; so I think the POC should work as much as I want it to. On the real model, the clearance will be taken up later by a fitted bearing guide, positioned using the connecting rods.

  3. Rene,
    I use MEK exclusively as my model “glue’. I buy in the quart from my local hardware store. The way I keep from smelling the fumes is to pour a small amount into a needle bottle. Squeeze the bottle just slightly and MEK comes out. If the needle gets clogged with styrene, a quick pass with a flame clears the clog. I’ve also tried a paint brush dipped in MEK, but I find I reach needle 10 times out of 10…

    Something along the lines of this.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UG08QDC/ref=sxr_zg_dy_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3525596382&pd_rd_wg=O6XFK&pf_rd_r=VMECBA9X8GW4KQ1YBCM8&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00UG08QDC&pd_rd_w=zH6UP&pf_rd_i=needle+bottle&pd_rd_r=a60c8a2c-5b33-4629-bbae-76b540658a51&ie=UTF8&qid=1523848754&sr=1

    or
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOQGUB0/ref=sxr_zg_dy_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3525596382&pd_rd_wg=O6XFK&pf_rd_r=VMECBA9X8GW4KQ1YBCM8&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00IOQGUB0&pd_rd_w=zH6UP&pf_rd_i=needle+bottle&pd_rd_r=a60c8a2c-5b33-4629-bbae-76b540658a51&ie=UTF8&qid=1523848754&sr=3

    I have the bottom one, and the shape makes for a nice controlled squeeze.

    Craig

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